3D Printing Z Seam & How to Eliminate It From Your Prints
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Last Updated:
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links. We may receive compensation when you purchase via my links at no cost to you. See our disclosure for more information.
One of the most common 3D printing imperfections is a very visible seam.
The Z seam is a verticle line along the Z-axis with an unusual appearance of a raised line or verticle stacking of blobs. The Z seam is the location where each layer of the print starts and stops.
Slicing software like Ultimaker’s Cura does a good job of hiding the Z seam by placing them in a sharp corner or a very tight radius. Additionally, you can hide the Z seam by adjusting retraction settings, reducing nozzle settings, enabling coasting, enabling linear advance, and lowering the print speed.
A Z seam in 3D printing refers to the point where each layer of the print starts and ends as the printer builds the object layer by layer. Imagine 3D printing as stacking layers of material, like drawing circles on top of each other. It get’s its name as the seam follows the Z-axis.
The Z seam is where the end of one circle meets the beginning of the next one. A Z seam is formed as the printer stops extruding to move to the next layer. The stop-and-start creates a visible line or small imperfection on the surface of the printed object.
This seam along the Z axis is noticeable because the material slightly builds up on either side of a small gap that forms as the printer transitions between layers.
Z seams don’t have much impact on your prints’ mechanical ability. But, if you’re printing display models where aesthetics are important, a visible Z seam ruins the look of a finished print.
Even if you plan to post-process your finished prints, it makes sense to eliminate the Z seam as the raised Z seam requires more sanding to create a smooth surface.
Fortunately, there are several easy ways to eliminate the Z seam.
There are several ways to reduce the presence of Z seams in your prints. You can fine tune slicer settings to reduce the visibility of layer transitions and enable slicing software settings to alter where your layers start and stop.
Slicing software like Cura allow you to control the alignment of the Z seam. The Z Seam Alignment controls how the bumps are aligned on your 3D print.
The Z Seam Alignment setting doesn’t reduce the impact of layer transitions. Instead, you can hide the seam or reduce its visibility by strategically placing layer transitions in less noticeable areas of your 3D model.
The setting essentially allows you to choose the starting point for each new layer.
Cura offers four options for Z Seam Alignment:
The Z seam corner preference setting in slicing software like Cura allows you to select the starting point and location of the Z seam in your 3D print. This setting is crucial in determining how visible or hidden the seam is on the final print. Here’s a breakdown of the different options available for Z seam corner preference and their effects:
Retraction settings tell your 3D printer to pull back the filament in the hot end (or nozzle) when it stops printing and moves to another location. Retraction reduces the Z seam by preventing filament from oozing or leaking of filament during these non-print movements, such as layer changes.
There are two retraction settings you need to know: retraction distance and retraction speed. Both settings are used together to minimize stringing and the Z seam.
We’ve found adjustments to the retraction distance by as little as 1 mm can make a noticeable difference in the Z seam appearance.
Tip: Adjusting your retraction settings too high can create jams or blockages in the printer nozzle.
Nozzle temperature directly impacts both the 3D printer flow rate and the viscosity of the plastic. Higher nozzle temperatures create more viscous plastic leading to higher extrusion rates and more plastic flowing through the nozzle.
Reducing your nozzle temperature prevents over-extrusion, making the Z seam less pronounced.
You can fine-tune your nozzle temperature with the help of the temperature calibration tower on Thingiverse.
Slower printing, especially of the outer wall, gives the extruder more time to retract filament between printing movements. With more time to extrude filament, there’s less pressure in the 3D printer nozzle between layer transitions reducing Z seam visibility.
Setting an outer wall speed as low as 15 mm/s greatly reduces Z seams in your 3D prints.
Coasting tells your printer to stop feeding filament into the printer nozzle a bit before the print head finishes each layer.
When coasting is enabled, it relieves pressure inside the heat block. The residual pressure extrudes filament on the last portion of the layer, but eliminates over-extrusion once the print head reaches the end of the layer.
It is important to play around with this setting and try to find a balance, as setting the coasting too high can result in tiny gaps when the printer runs out of material before the end of the layer.
If the coasting value is set too low, it won’t prevent unwanted extrusion at the end of the layer, producing a Z seam.
Wiping relieves pressure inside the hot end by using a quick side-to-side movement at the end of each layer. Wiping stops melted plastic from dripping before starting the next layer.
Linear advance is a firmware feature adjusts the heat block pressure to keep extrusion constant in relation to printer speed.
When your nozzle makes sudden stops and starts or drastically reduces speed, the pressure inside the extruder produces extra filament. Linear advance lowers the pressure in the nozzle by adjusting retractions based on the nozzle speed. The result is minimal excess material at the layer seam.
Unlike the other options, linear advance is set in the firmware settings of the printer and not in the slicing software. Enabling linear advance is easy enough and significantly improves print quality.
You’ll have to calibrate the K factors for your filament’s material properties and print temperature. But a setting of 0.5 works well for most PLA printing.
Don’t enable coasting if you have enabled linear advance. The two settings don’t work well when combined.
The final way to completely hide Z seams is by using Cura’s Vase Mode, or “spiralize outer contour” in PrusaSlicer. Vase Mode completely eliminates layer transitions as each new layer continues with a smooth transition to build upon the previous layer.
In other words, there’s no stopping and starting between each layer change when Vase Mode is enabled.
The 3D prints don’t have a Z seam because there’s no stopping between layer changes. For that reason, it also produces quicker print times.
Enabling vase mode is most people’s immediate solution to hiding the Z seam.
So why did we put it last on our list?
It’s not that we don’t like the setting, but we believe properly calibrating your 3D printer is a better approach to preventing the Z seam. Though calibrating a printer is tedious, it teaches you valuable skills and makes you a better creator.
But if all else fails, don’t be afraid to give vase mode a try.